I have a Kawasaki Ninja 250 and it doesn%26#039;t run good under 4000 rpm. Above that it works fine. If you let it idle down then try to accelerate it%26#039;s like it loads up with fuel. Once the rpms go past 4000 it cleans out and runs fine. Also it doesn%26#039;t idle smoothly. It only has 55 miles on it and has good gas in the tank.|||Those things are notorious for that in as-delivered condition.
Most people just ride them beleiving %26quot;that%26#039;s just their nature%26quot;
Their %26quot;Nature%26quot; is Kaw%26#039;s EPA Whippin%26#039; Boy.
Sales Volume is so extremely high they represent a substantial percentage of Total.
EPA Certification does not go strictly according to Particular Models,,,,,much of the mandates are based upon Corporate Averages.
By cutting the Tuning to the bitter edge of driveability on the 250%26#039;s----that has a measureable impact on Corporate Averages.
On 250 Ninja%26#039;s,,,%26quot;Who Cares???%26quot;--the bikes have virtually NO Competition in the Mkt Place.
People are Going To Buy every one Kaw can make,,,,whether it%26#039;s Tuned Sharp or Not.
Kaw then takes the Leeway gained by strangling the 250%26#039;s,,,
and THAT allows them to Sharpen Up the Tune on their Big Bikes which have FAR More Competition on the Sales Floor.
%26quot;Rob Peter to Pay Paul%26quot; on the EPA Corporate Average emmissions Certs.
The methodology employed includes
*use of water-weight oil
*retarded ignition timing
*retarded camshaft timing
*extreme lean idle circuit
*very lean mid range circuit
*somewhat lean main fuel circuit
The coumpound effect of all that is gutless,erratic low rpm performance.
BUT,,by coincidence it all conspires to yield a Fast Rising Torque Curve as engine reaches torque Peak,,,,and a wide flat After torque peak.
All with a High RPM spike in power.
%26quot;Public%26quot; tends to accept it as being %26quot;Just a Peaky,Cammy%26quot; Motor,,,,besides getting kicks outa the sudden rush of power as Tach reaches toward end of it%26#039;s rpm range.
Makes it feel like early/mid 60%26#039;s %26quot;Race Motor%26quot; tech.
Real Zoomy at Hi RPM
Whenever you get to a point where Ya wanna Do something about it.....
*Put some Good Oil in it
*And some good spark plugs
*Put some free flow air filters
*Rejet it Properly
*Advance the Ignition timing
**Far as juggling the cam timing---That%26#039;s just a matter of personal prefference and application.
Anyone who wants the throttle response in the 80~100mph range would not wanna re-index the cam.
Or,,perhaps even retard it further a few degrees.
Advancing it from stock position can lower the power band by near 20 mph.
And due to cranking pressure increase of that it makes %26#039;em pull amazing hard under 5,000rpm.
Make it pull a higher gear at lower rpm,,slow down engine at %26quot;hi way speeds%26quot;,,,and still go over a 100mph.
But the TradeOff is that it DOES suppress the Highest RPM power peak quite a bit.
It may Technically be Re-Calibration to %26quot;non-emmission%26quot; standards,,,,
but in actual practice it%26#039;s gotta be considered %26quot;Optional%26quot;depending of How a person wants their engine to pull,,and how they plan to use the bike.
So,,,No %26quot;right or wrong%26quot;
And,,,most folks just really aren%26#039;t too into going INTO a motor to make an internal adjustment to dial it in.
Even though it%26#039;s a very simple operation,fas as internal work goes.
..........................
Several folks have already mentioned %26quot;Cleaning Carbs%26quot; to address accumulations in carbs due to Sitting a while Pre-sale.
That%26#039;s very good advice,,because such conditions DO occurr.
If You want to spend a few $$ to TRY something,,,add about 2~3 oz per gallon of Chevron Techron Concentrate.
Might help,,might not.
If anything in a Bottle will,,that WILL.
Keep in mind though,,,the bikes REALLY ARE tuned quite raggedy at the rpm You are describing.
Even when everything is right %26quot;by the book%26quot; they can seem to be %26quot;wrong%26quot; till Ya get used to how they run.
Kaw Really has them knocked off optimum tune an extreme amount,,,and they suffer most at the lower speeds down in the EPA test range.
At some point,,,regardless of all else,You really should consider doing a Re-Jet.
A Kit may be most convenient approach.
For Your 250 Ninja,,I%26#039;d reccomend using the jet kit from www.FactoryPro.com
Good luck,,have fun|||Get a product at the auto shop called SEAFOAM and put it in the gas tank. Read the directions as you put in 1 ounce per gallon but it will make your ride smoother..also save the site below to your favorites.|||Mine was similar when I first got it but mine ran high. There is an idle adjusting screw just under the seat on the left I believe, its black. Maybe it just needs adjusted. (Its on page 85 in the owners manual) The book also says it could be poor carb synchronization.|||Sounds to me like you need to clean the carb........and check your jetting. Also check your float bowl to see it%26#039;s holding the proper amount of fuel. Hope this helps.|||it looks like someone is addicted to yahoo answers.|||you may need to clean the carb out on it those bikes run better at higher rpm,s anyway,but when the carb gets the least amount of dirt in it,they will run like that,and if it has set for any length of time that could also cause it,my nephew rides one of those and he likes it,but if you let it set for while and not ride it it will load up a little,it may be time to have the carb re-adjusted on it also if it has that low of miles on it its a good idea to re-adjust them as they get a few more miles on them,good luck on it.|||they do not like to be run that low, I love my ninja 250 but do your shifting so as to keep your rpms above 5500, a few hundred more miles to get the rings seated will probably lessen the issue and improve the idle|||After my ninja 250 was stored away for 2 years, I took it to a dealer and had them clean and balance the carbs and replace the sparkplugs. Ran like new after that.|||generally speaking the 250 doesnt have a whole throttle response below 4000 rpms. If the bike has sat up for more than a month i would reccomend a carb clean. Theres no saying how long the bike sat at the dealership before you bought it assuming you bought it new. you can remove the spark plugs and check them for excessive carbon build up. If you bought it new take it back to the dealer and let them fix it.|||if you are having problems with a new bike take ti back to the dealership you purchased it from. although it may only need correct %26#039;breaking-in%26#039;.
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